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শুক্রবার, ৬ সেপ্টেম্বর, ২০১৯

Slub Yarn: Types, Production and End Uses

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<b><i>What is Slub Yarn?</i></b><br />
<b><i><br /></i></b>
<b>Slub yarn</b> refers to yarn that has been purposely spun with slubs (thicker sections along the yarn) while it was once seen only as a defect, slub yarn is now intentionally created to give fabric more personality.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slub Yarn: Types, Production and End Uses</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Affect the visual effect of slub yarn:</h3>
<div style="text-align: left;">
There are four factors are affect the visual effect of slub yarn. They are:-</div>
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Number of slubs per kilometer (NSm)</li>
<li>Diameter (dia) of slub</li>
<li>Length of slub</li>
<li>Distance between slub.</li>
</ul>
<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXctxjnROcnUshdvvlNgo9qkBG-zwWrWGkvG8dWi2cxsxkEa5gldKBrCgiy_IcsdxaKOPhTM1hz6KQda4VzWieqwAFPSscWPNCIyYGwGFT92IATlZ6RUXSM9c4OUn5F9iXL5Ozx3koPc5W/s1600/slub+yarn.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="157" data-original-width="571" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXctxjnROcnUshdvvlNgo9qkBG-zwWrWGkvG8dWi2cxsxkEa5gldKBrCgiy_IcsdxaKOPhTM1hz6KQda4VzWieqwAFPSscWPNCIyYGwGFT92IATlZ6RUXSM9c4OUn5F9iXL5Ozx3koPc5W/s1600/slub+yarn.png" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
<span style="text-align: left;">Fig: Parameters of slub yarn</span></div>
All these parameters are selected by computer. Slub vision software is used for this purpose.<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Types of slub yarn on the basis of visual effect:</h3>
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Pattern/regular slub yarn</li>
<li>Non-pattern/irregular slub yarn</li>
<li>Multicount slub yarn</li>
<li>Both are pattern and non-pattern slub yarn.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<br />
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Suppliers of slub yarn attachment m/c:</h3>
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Amsler - Germany</li>
<li>Jiangyin CF Tex Tech Co Ltd - China</li>
<li>Caipo - Italy</li>
<li>Pinter - Spain</li>
<li>Slub-O-Generator of Fancytex - Gwalior, India, etc.</li>
</ul>
<br />
Some ring frame machine manufacturer are supplying the ring frame with inbuilt mechanisms for slub and multicount yarns. Some popular machine manufacturers are-<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>Marzoli - Italy</li>
<li>Zinser - Germany</li>
<li>Toyota - Japan, etc.</li>
</ul>
<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Production of slub yarn in ring frame:</h3>
<br />
1. In the ring frame, there is a servo motor with slub gear and another with twist gear.<br />
<br />
2. Back and middle rollers get motion from the same gearing and the front rollers get motion from separate gearing.<br />
<br />
3. Slub is produced by the speed variation of back and middle rollers.<br />
<br />
4. Break draft is always maintained properly, otherwise roving breakage will be created.<br />
<br />
5. Back roller speed will be increased continuously after a certain time. As a result more material will be feed, whereas during that time the draft of front zone remains constant. So a thick place in the final yarn will be created after a certain time.<br />
<br />
6. The controller controls the following:-<br />
<br />
<ul style="text-align: left;">
<li>After how much time (mili second) the speed of back roller will be increased.</li>
<li>How longer the increased speed will remain.</li>
<li>Amount of speed that to be increased.</li>
</ul>
<br />
7. Twist gear is optional, the speed of front roller is fixed when twist gear is not used.<br />
<br />
8. Twist is controlled by changing the speed of front roller.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBRuBxUlRgeq0K9MpBtIZhPqfPB58Dk4bE21bfxYcScRU51oScnW72iNCQr8gZ1ZslfHChPF58HGOcWWLQBSnz83czkcstSS-5M66jyAm2u0N7IDcxdgEpvw3EaIoBH7nAYhpNYB8-TMi/s1600/slub+yarn+1.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="457" data-original-width="530" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiBRuBxUlRgeq0K9MpBtIZhPqfPB58Dk4bE21bfxYcScRU51oScnW72iNCQr8gZ1ZslfHChPF58HGOcWWLQBSnz83czkcstSS-5M66jyAm2u0N7IDcxdgEpvw3EaIoBH7nAYhpNYB8-TMi/s1600/slub+yarn+1.png" /></a></div>
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
 Production of slub yarn in ring frame </h3>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU2KlSDAR2OmJiQV4quvnzq3UWBkzNHuz18KvT1NJjyXfW9TgUocN8xbDKHTsP148J-afbHVC4Eq_UoL98QlyOde8GuXBJhavycShXIM0KiFW8U7afXPVbPBBrokJU2uaB_v_en4gaAeLs/s1600/slub+yarn+2.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="370" data-original-width="538" height="220" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiU2KlSDAR2OmJiQV4quvnzq3UWBkzNHuz18KvT1NJjyXfW9TgUocN8xbDKHTsP148J-afbHVC4Eq_UoL98QlyOde8GuXBJhavycShXIM0KiFW8U7afXPVbPBBrokJU2uaB_v_en4gaAeLs/s320/slub+yarn+2.png" width="320" /></a></div>
<br />
<div style="text-align: center;">
Fig.: Production of slub yarn in ring frame</div>
<br />
In rotor spinning, slub is produced by the speed variation of feed roller. When the feed roller speed is increased, the over feed takes place and as a result slub is created.<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
End uses of slub yarn:</h3>
Slub yarn is used in traditional fabrics such as upholstery, lace, curtains and household fabrics in general. But it is becoming more popular in the production of denim on ring spinning, shirting and knitwear.<br />
<br />
<br /></div>

What is Slub Yarn? Slub yarn refers to yarn that has been purposely spun with slubs (thicker sections along the yarn) while it was once ...

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সোমবার, ১ এপ্রিল, ২০১৯

How to Calculate Fabric Consumption and Costing for 1 Dozen Trousers

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<br />
<b>Introduction:</b><br />
Fabric consumption for making a trouser is an important task for garments merchandiser. When a buying house get an order for trouser then merchandising manager distribute order among other merchandisers. Then fabric consumption is the first and basic work for responsible merchandiser.<br />
<br />
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<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Consumption Calculation for 1 Dozen Trousers:</h3>
<br />
<b>Equation for consumption of 1 piece trouser:</b><br />
<br />
Fabric Consumption for trouser = (L + Allowance) x (W+ Allowance) x 4<br />
<br />
Here,<br />
L= Length of the out seam measurement including waist band = 45”,<br />
Bottom hem seam allowance = 2”<br />
Waist band seam allowance = 1”<br />
Sewing allowance = 1”<br />
<br />
W = Thigh width = 15”<br />
Inseam allowance =1”<br />
Out seam allowance = 1”<br />
<br />
Now,<br />
<br />
Fabric Consumption for trouser = (45+4) x (15+2) x 4<br />
= 49 x 17 x 4 sq. inch<br />
= 3332 sq. inch<br />
<br />
<b>Fabric consumption for pocketing:</b><br />
It is also required to calculate pocketing and lining fabric requirement. As per design, two front pockets are considered. Calculation is as follows:<br />
<br />
Fabric consumption for pocketing: (L+ 1) X (W+1) X Number of pockets<br />
<br />
Here,<br />
<br />
L = length of the pocket = 10”<br />
W= Width of the pocket = 6”<br />
Number of pockets = 2<br />
<br />
Now,<br />
Fabric consumption for pocketing = (10+ 1) X (6+1) X 2<br />
= 11 x 7 x 2 sq. inch<br />
= 154 sq. inch<br />
<br />
Total fabric consumption for 1 piece trouser = 3332 + 154 sq. inch<br />
= 3486 sq. inch<br />
<br />
If we consider the width of fabric = 60 inch<br />
Then marker width = 58, therefore<br />
<br />
Fabric required for 1 piece trouser = 3486/58 inch<br />
= 60.1 inch<br />
= 60.1/36 yds<br />
= 1.67 yds<br />
<br />
If the wastage 9%,<br />
Total fabric consumption with waste percentage<br />
= 1.67 + 9% yds<br />
= 1.76 yds<br />
<br />
1.76 yds fabric need for 1 piece trouser.<br />
<br />
So, 1 Dozen trousers need = 12 x 1.76 = 21.12 yds fabric<br />
<br />
Costing Calculation of 1 Dozen Trouser:<br />
<br />
If,<br />
Cost of main fabric = (21.12 x 2)$ [$2/yd] = 42.24$<br />
Cost of accessories/doz ……… = $7.00<br />
Washing cost/doz ……………. = $4.50<br />
C. M. …………………………… = $18.00<br />
…………………………………………………………………<br />
Total cost                                    = 71.74$<br />
<br />
1 Dozen trouser cost is 71.74$.<br />
Actual costing depends on accessories, washing and cost of making. And its depend on buyer requirements.<br />
<br />
<br /></div>

Introduction: Fabric consumption for making a trouser is an important task for garments merchandiser. When a buying house get an order f...

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বৃহস্পতিবার, ২৮ মার্চ, ২০১৯

Formulating equations for calculating of circular weft knitted fabric

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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://www.facebook.com/ahkfabrics/" target="_blank">Formulating equations for calculating of circular weft knitted fabric</a></td></tr>
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<b>Introduction:</b><br />
<br />
Fabrics are produced mainly by knitting technique and weaving technique. Knit fabric production is easier and quicker than weaving technique. Though knitting production is simple, its technical parameters calculation is complicated and difficult than weaving.  Technical parameters involved in the knit fabrics are: loop structure, loop/stitch length, CPI ,WPI, GSM, shrinkage, spirality, fabric width etc. In reality knitted loops in the fabric is curvilinear in shape but this work has done necessary analysis to consider it like a circle, following thata circle geometry and corresponding formulae has been used in formulating some parameters of circular knitted single jersey fabric. It is very difficult to maintain& control circular knitted fabric parameters due to severalvariables (like yarn type, yarn quality, yarn twist, fabric structure, machine speed, machine rotation, yarn tension, take up tension & many more) related with circular knitting production and influences of them are unavoidable, so the parameters can be varying more than acceptable limit. But still the derived formulae focus practicalenvironmentand help to calculate parameters directly and easily.<br />
<br />
<b>Methodology:</b><br />
<br />
The first attempt was to get a technical equation to calculate fabric diameter or width for factory use and for that several ways was followed, both searching books and trying to formulate new one. To have new equation, the proposed ideawas using circle for loops shape, then the same idea was used to calculate others parameters. All the equations were then checked with large number of factory data.<br />
<br />
<b><i>Related Terminologies & Definitions:</i></b><br />
<br />
<b>Knitting</b><br />
<br />
Knitted structures are progressively built-up from row of intermeshed loops. The newly fed yarn is converted into a new loop in each needle hook. The needle then draws the new loop head first through the old (fabric) loop, which has retained from the previous knitting cycle. The needles, at the same time, release, (cast off or knock over) the old loops so that they hang suspended by their heads from the feet of the new loops whose heads are still held in the hooks of the needles. A cohesive knitted loop structure is thus produced by a combination of the intermeshed needle loops and yarn that passes from needle loop to needle loop.There are so many variables in knitting production like, yarn related (i.e. yarn composition, count, twist direction, twist per inch (TPI) etc.); machine related (i.e. machine diameter, machine RPM, rotation direction, no of feeder, VDQ pulley diameter etc.) & fabric related (i.e. fabric type, construction, stitch length, stitch density etc.) and this can vary fabric parameters at large.<br />
<br />
<b>Wales Per Inch</b><br />
<br />
Wales per inch (WPI)indicate the total numbers of wales in one inch of linear fabric. WPI is one of the important parameters to determine GSM of fabric and other fabric properties.<br />
<br />
<b>Courses Per Inch</b><br />
<br />
Coursesper inch (CPI)indicate thenumbers of coursesin one inch of linear fabric.  In the same manner, CPI is one of the important parameters to determine GSM of knit fabric and other fabric properties.<br />
<br />
<b>Stitch length</b><br />
<br />
Stitch length is theoretically the single length of yarn which include one needle loop and half of a sinker loopbetween that needle loop and the adjacent needle loop.The length is measured in millimeter (mm). Itinfluencesfabric dimension  and other properties including weight.<br />
<br />
<b>Fabric Width</b><br />
<br />
Where,  d = Cylinder diameter, G = Gauge of machine<br />
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<b>GSM</b><br />
<br />
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric.<br />
Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,<br />
<br />
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Here, T = Tex, S = Stitch density,<br />
<br />
l= Stitchlength<br />
<br />
GSM is one of the primary parameters for determining fabric quality and GSM depends on WPI, CPI, yarn count (Ne) and stitch length.The GSM cutter isvery popular and easy usable GSM testing instrument used in most of the knittingfactories.The construction of this cutter is very simple. It is circular disk of 100 square cm area with sharp blade attached to its edge. So 100 square cm of fabric can easily cut by it and weighted at the electric balance to get GSM Reading.<br />
Technical formula used for GSM calculation,<br />
<br />
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<br />
<b>Yarn Diameter Calculation:</b><br />
<br />
In indirect system of yarn count, higher the yarn count finer the yarn<br />
<br />
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Formulating equations for calculating of circular weft knitted fabric Introduction: Fabrics are produced mainly by knitting technique...

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মঙ্গলবার, ২৬ মার্চ, ২০১৯

Knit Fabric Consumption Formula, Ahk Fabrics, A trusted fabric supply

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Knit Fabric Consumption Formula, Ahk Fabrics, A trusted fabric supply Introduction: It is very important task for garment merchandise...

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সিংগেল জার্সি ১৬০ জিএসএম, Ahk Fabrics, A trusted fabric supplier

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সিংগেল জার্সি ১৬০ জিএসএম, Ahk Fabrics, A trusted fabric supplier সিংগেল জার্সি ১৬০ জিএসএম এর সুতি কাপড় তৈরিতে কত কাউন্টের সুতা ব্যবহৃত...

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সোমবার, ২৫ মার্চ, ২০১৯

Merchandiser Job Description in Garments - Ahk Fabrics, A trusted fabric supplier

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Merchandiser Job Description in Garments, Ahk Fabrics, A trusted fabric supplier In garments sector, merchandising is an important depa...

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শনিবার, ২৩ মার্চ, ২০১৯

Eco-Friendly Fibers and Organic Fibers - Ahk Fabrics A Trusted Fabrics Supplier

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<br />All natural fibres are not Eco-friendly Fibers</h3>
Natural fibre, such as cotton fibre is free of impurities but only when no harmful pesticides or insecticides are used in its cultivation. If so, then it is environmentally friendly. However, even if they are produced sans any of these harmful substances, they can become ‘polluted’ when processed for making yarns and fabrics because of all the textile chemicals used on them.<br />
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Same is the case with animal fibre like wool which can get contaminated due to pesticides used in sheep dips or a variety of drugs used for treating animal diseases. However, when the plant fibre, cotton for example once again, is cultivated without any harmful pesticides and with the help of composted manures and cover crops then only can it be said ‘organic cotton’ which is 100% eco-friendly fibre.<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Man-made fibres can also be Eco-friendly Fibers</h3>
Natural fibres are obtained from plants (such as cotton, hemp, jute etc.), from animals (such as wool, fur etc.), or insects (such as silk). Man-made fibres can be divided into two categories synthetic fibres and regenerated fibres. Synthetic fibres are completely made from chemicals like polyester fibre or nylon fibre. Regenerated fibres are made by transforming natural polymers through the chemical-based process.<br />
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These fibres again have two categories – one having protein origin and the other with cellulose origin. Regenerated fibres of protein origin come from plant protein such as corn, soy, peanut etc. or from animal protein such as casein from milk. Regenerated fibres of cellulose origin come from the cellulose of wood pulp or leaves.<br />
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Examples of such fibres are bamboo, rayon, lyocell, tencel, viscose etc. Thus, these man-made regenerated fibres (some of which are sometimes called synthetic fibres like rayon), are also eco- friendly fibres.<br />
<h3 style="text-align: left;">
Ecology</h3>
The eco-problems in textile industry occur during some production processes and are carried forward right to the finished product. Controlling pollution is as vital as making a product free from the toxic effect. There is a need to produce the material which is eco-friendly. So, the materials can be considered ‘environmentally friendly for a variety of reasons’.<br />
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The chemicals used which are responsible for polluting air are chlorine gas, acetic acid fumes, kerosene, diazotisation fumes, acid fumes etc. A new parameter that today increasingly vital is ecology. With respect to clothing & textiles the phrase ‘Ecology’ can be classified into:<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
    Production ecology</h4>
    This refers to the process of production and manufacture of fibers, textiles, and garments which should be environmentally friendly and should satisfy the rational conditions for the conservation of air purity, water purity, waste treatment, and for the protection against noise.<br />
<h4>
    Human ecology</h4>
    Effect of textiles has on the user, apparels next to skin on health. The concentration of substances which, according to the present knowledge, could induce dangerous effects on humans during normal use must be avoided in the textiles.<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
    Disposal ecology</h4>
    Effect of textile waste (solid as well as liquid) on a clean environment. Sustainable Textile is a pattern of resource use that aims to meet human needs while preserving the environment so that these needs can be met not only in the present but also for generations to come.<br />
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Since, the very idea of sustainable development revolves around the progress which is taking place in the present, keeping in mind the future, somewhere. Since eco-textiles are the need of the hour and also are of the primary goals of millennium development goals in sustainable environmental development.<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
What are Eco-Friendly Fabrics?</h4>
Eco-friendly fabrics are made from fibres that do not require the use of any pesticides or chemicals to grow. They are naturally resistant to mold and mildew and are disease free. Hemp, linen, bamboo, and ramie are ecofriendly fibres.<br />
<h4 style="text-align: left;">
Why Go Organic or EcoFriendly?</h4>
Social responsibility: Chemicals and pesticides invade drinking water and groundwater, polluting its fish and even reaching human consumption. Organic and eco fibres grow without any pesticides or chemical fertilizers.<br />
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Biodegradable: Eco and organic fabric biodegrade naturally over time. Synthetic fibres eventually become waste and let off harmful toxins when they degrade.<br />
Health: Many people are allergic or dislike wearing synthetic textiles. Eco fabrics have all the properties of the new synthetic breathable fibres with added softness and drape. They feel better against the skin.<br />
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Absorption: Not only do its chemicals reach the groundwater, but conventional clothing is also worn next to the most porous organskin.Organic and ecofibers are natural and do not contain irritating chemicals. Many of them are also considered<br />
hypoallergenic and naturally antibacterial.<br />
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Popularity: Organic foods have been around for a while and it is a natural evolution that organic and eco-friendly fabrics will also gain popularity. Eco and Organic fabrics once considered an alternative is now entering into the mainstream.<br />
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Eco-Friendly Fibers and Organic Fibers - Ahk Fabrics A Trusted Fabrics Supplier All natural fibres are not Eco-friendly Fibers Natura...

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